ISO 20418-1:2018 テキスタイル—一部の動物の毛髪繊維の定性的および定量的プロテオミクス分析—パート1：タンパク質還元を伴うLC-ESI-MSを使用したペプチド検出 | ページ 2

Foreword

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This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles.

A list of all parts in the ISO 20418 series can be found on the ISO website.

Introduction

International producers of textiles in cashmere and other speciality fibres have to be aware of and be able to guarantee the fibre content in order to protect consumers and defend themselves from common frauds. Therefore, it is important to have a harmonized method of analysis at an international level to avoid different interpretations of the results and related conflicts between stakeholders.

The innovations in the method described in this document are

• objective qualitative determination of the presence of fibres derived from animal species and
• quantitative assessment of the relative percentages present in blends.

1 Scope

This document specifies a qualitative and quantitative testing method to determine the content of wool, cashmere, yak fibres and their blends in textiles by microscope preliminary screening, protein extraction, enzymatic digestion and specific peptides detection using a liquid chromatography-mass spectrometer equipped with electrospray ionization source (LCI-ESI-MC).

This method can be applied to relevant textile products at each process stage (i.e. from raw material to garment) with a homogeneous distribution of the components. It can be applied to different types of textile materials (e.g. staples, tops, yarns and fabrics) that contain wool, cashmere or yak fibres and their blends. The method is based on a preliminary identification of all fibres in the blend on the basis of their morphology, by light microscopy. The proteins are then extracted by a thiourea/urea/dithiothreitol (DTT) solution. An enzymatic digestion by trypsin of the protein extracted from the fibres is carried out. Analysis of the specific markers is performed by LC-MS and the percent composition is calculated.

This method is applicable to samples containing other kinds of fibres than wool, cashmere and yak, by combining its results with the results obtained using the ISO 1833 series and/or the ISO 17751 series.

This document does not apply if fibres of the same animal species are present (e.g. blends of cashmere and mohair); in this case, the quantitative analysis can be performed using microscopic analysis (e.g. ISO 17751 series).

2 Normative references

The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.

3 Terms and definitions

For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.

ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:

Bibliography